expedition Deo Tibba (6001 mts.)
Location: Located at Dhungan
Nalla and Malana glacier .
Height: 6001 mts.
Grid reference: 77. 23 E- 32.12
Route: Manali- Jagatsukh- Khanol-
2480 mts., Khanol – Chikka- 3160 mts. ,
Chikka – Seri- 3620 mts., Seri- Tenta- 4070
mts., Tenta- C1- 4500 mts., C1- C2- 5200 mts.,
C2- Peak- 6001 mts- C1, C1- BC- Chikka- Jagatsukh-
Status: First ski down in 1975
and climbed by many teams via dhugan col as well
as via Malana glacier
Grade of Climb: (a) Difficult
climb, (b) Climbers should have the knowledge
of snow, ice and rock climbing techniques.
Duration: Two to three weeks
Season: May to October
Equipment: (a) Camping equipment
upto base camp will be provided, (b) Camping &
technical equipment beyond base camp to be arranged,
(c) Personal equipment to be brought by climbers
Food: (a) Food upto base camp
will be arranged, (b) Food for higher camps to
be arranged by the climbers
Transportation: Manali to road
head (Jagatsukh)& back to Manali will be provided
Porters/Mules Manali to base camp and back Guide/HAPs
The experienced guide/HAPs familiar with the area
as per necessary requirement will be provided
Medical: Only first aid will
be provided upto base camp . Insurance To be arranged
by the climbers
facilities will be provided from Manali to base
Rescue: The rescue cover will
be provided by land route, in case of emergency
helicopter evacuation can be made available on
special request and the expenditure be based on
Deo Tibba is a beautiful 6001metre high peak situated in the Pir Panjal range of mountains in the
Manali area in Himachal Pradesh. Deo Tibba consists of an extensive ice cap the actual climb being a snow hump accessible once the edge of the ice plateau is reached. It also has the beauty of being just over the 6000 metre high mark which is a great achievement for any climber.
TREKKING TO BASE CAMP: Jagatsukh
village just 6 kms from Manali is the road head
for the trek to base camp. It is a 3 or 4 day
approach walk to base camp depending on where
base camp is established. One possibility for
base camp is located near a glacier lake called
"Chandra Tal" close to the main glacier
that falls off the south-east face of Deo Tibba.
is at an altitude of 4500m/14850ft. It is quite a high
base camp and depending on the rate of acclimatization,
the base camp may be set lower at around 4070m/13430ft.
This will mean the camp at the Col that is spoken about
below becomes Camp Two with Camp One at 4500m/14850ft.Moving
on to Camp One at Duangan Col (Duangan Pass) the route
crosses the Deo Tibba Glacier and takes a steep slope
of between 45 and 55 degrees for around 300 metres.
The climbing is mixed on snow, rock and ice to cover
this portion of the climb to the Col (pass). For safe
travel ropes will need to be fixed for most of this
reaching Duangan Col Camp One can be set at the
Col, or a little further on at the base of some
more technical ground known as the Pitton Ridge.
The Col is generally preferred but also depends
on the prevailing conditions at the time.
climbers make a direct ascent from this high camp
to the summit via the Pitton Ridge which faces
east. The ridge is quite steep and again requires
fixed rope for safe travel for around 150 metres.
Soon after climbing the rock of the Pitton Ridge
you move onto the snow field. From this point
on Deo Tibba and its neighbour Indra San are visible
and for climbers moving at a good pace it is only
an additional two hours from this point onwards
following the left side of the upper glacier.
Because of deo Tibba's giant snow dome covering
it is a relatively easy final ascent with few
crevasses to negotiate. The slope steepens to
around 50 degrees just below the summit for about
summit itself is quite a wide expanse able to
accommodate all climbers.